TELGEN VACATION REPORT

Finnish Lapland, December, 1999

Noon at 68°N After travelling around Europe seeing castles and museums and other sights, we thought it would be interesting to do something a little different during the Christmas holiday—and going to the Arctic Circle in the middle of December would certainly qualify! We left for Lapland less than a week before the winter solstice, headed for the town of Saariselkä—some 100-plus miles north of the Arctic Circle at a latitude of more than 68°N. The sun was up for no more than 4½ hours each day, including at least an hour of dim twilight on either end of a cloudy period of full sun. In the picture above, taken during a break in our dogsled trip, it was actually about 11:30 am. (It was also -23°C, or about -10°F, which explains David's reluctant stance.) Although it wasn't really as dark as the picture makes it out to be (I really should have bought some 400-speed film), the very short day did perplex our body clocks. It would feel like 7 or 8 in the evening, but then you'd look at your watch and it would only be 3:30! Although we had clear enough skies on a couple of evenings, we didn't get a chance to see the Northern Lights, as we had hoped we might.

Look ma, no breaks! Driving a dogsled was just one of the fun winter activities we indulged in while in Lapland—we also tried snowmobiling, ice fishing, reindeer driving, and tobogganing, which led to a display of Diane's usual gracefulness. I'd been in the country less than 24 hours when I got to sample the Finnish medical system. The reason I am grinning like an idiot in this picture: 1) the lovely pain-killers; and 2) the diagnosis (as best I could understand it): not broken! (Upon further review back home: a severe sprain to both knee and ankle that required physical therapy for several weeks to get them to work properly again. I also developed some very impressive bruises, even by my standards.) So how did I do this—as if those of you who know me well need to ask? I was sledding down the fell (what an appropriate term) at a fairly decent clip, and while I managed to steer away from a fence, I failed to avoid a pole inside the fence and drove into it boot first. Luckily for me, the Finns have the highest ratio of mobile phones to people in the known universe and a cross-country skier stopped and called the emergency services. I was taken down the fell in a snowmobile ambulance and then transferred to the nearest hospital. David was sure I would turn up on one of those rescue/disaster shows he is so fond of, but I didn't spy any cameras nearby so I think he'll be disappointed.

On the reindeer farm in Finland Luckily for me, I didn't require a cast and so was able to soldier on for a second day of winter fun. As befit the Lappish setting, we spent a day at a reindeer farm. It was much warmer this day: only -11°C (+12°F), or about the same as moderately chilly day back home in Michigan. There was little wind, which explains why all the trees in this picture still have a lovely, thick layer of snow on them. It was a very picturesque setting in which to experience some traditional Laplander activities, such as a ceremony in a winter tent (resembling a teepee) and a ride on a sleigh behind a reindeer. We also got a chance to feed the reindeer (they eat lichen), try snowmobiling (even David, on a tethered mini-Cat), and make an unsuccessful attempt at ice fishing. In between all this activity we had a chance for a nice traditional lunch of salmon soup inside a toasty warm log cabin.

Santa's fireplace The primary reason for visiting Lapland in winter, however, is because a certain Arctic-dwelling gentleman can be found there. We were driven through the hushed, snowy forest by snowmobile-powered sleigh, and approached a small log cabin surrounded by flickering candles. Three elves led us inside, where David met the man himself and tendered his request for an aircraft carrier. (Which Santa did deliver—after a last-minute, near-frantic search.) We capped the trip off with a traditional Finnish Christmas dinner, as well as a little shopping. Our trip home was also enhanced (in David's opinion) by taking a trip through Helsinki airport in one of those airport golf-cart things, light flashing and beeper beeping. (I always wondered what that would be like, although I wish I'd found an easier way of trying it.) One thing is for sure—we certainly enjoyed one of our most memorable holidays in Lapland, one we're not likely to forget any time soon!

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